I was lucky enough to be hit head on by a numpty cutting a corner on a t junction.

I was waiting to turn right, he was on my left turning right into the road I was coming out of. He didn't cut the corner a little bit.. he was just on the wrong side of the road entirely!

Ill get money for the bike, or it will get fixed so ok. I will be claiming for lost hours at work, helmet, injury but all that is going to take a while... Wong be much but its still money out my pocket from this blokes stupidity.

I think i landed on my top box or my lunch box in my bag and done my back in. Doc says anything from soft tissue damage around the bottom floating rib to a fracture but its not broken.

Just hurts like a mother f...

You can do everything right but at the end of the day your at the mercy of the other road users and their ability to drive 

Boo!

Hope everyone is well, Not been on in a while. Busy, Life etc..

I need some help with the YBR..

I took a trip to Cambridge and back to Peterborough and after the trip, there was a new sound from the engine. sound like its coming from the top end.

A sort of whirring, winding sound but only under load. So when accelerating. Just holding speed I could not hear it.

The bike has been running fine. No issues with it running etc but I was concerned about this new sound so I decided to investigate today.

I took out the cam shaft to check it out and make sure the bearings are ok as well as other tings. All seemed good in the top end so no clue as to where the sound was coming from there.

But upon putting it all back together it went to Cinnamon Swirl. The cam chain decided it was not going to seat correctly on the bottom end and slipped about 45 degrees. So now when the TDC mark was in the right spot on the magneto, the cam sprocket TDC marking was no longer at the top is was on the left point forward. Oh yay. and it did not sound healthy.. obv...

So some messing about and I got it to seat correctly but the bike would not start and sounded like it lacked compression. Virtually no resistance felt on the kick start. Oh Cinnamon Swirl. Has that things skipping teeth caused a valve to get bent?

So I went on a mission to take a look at the valves.. What fun dismantling an engine is. Took it apart enough for me to get in there and take a look. And do you know what I found?

Sweet Éclair all. It "looks" fine but looks can be deceiving. Before I started taking the top end apart, the engine sounded quite rough when turning over. So Once it was all back together I took the little adjusters out of the rockers so they would not move the valves much. They still pushed on them a small amount a few mm. I tuned the engine over to hear how it sounded and this time it sounded fine. Still Éclair all compression though.

I put the valves back together and tried to start it. Apart from the engine not sounding like its got rocks in it, it still did not start and still Éclair all compression.

Is a valve slightly bent out of shape maybe? I can get some new valves. Just a ball ache to get the engine apart again to fit them. Or could buy a new top end that has the valves in it already.

This could all be a deep rabbit hole that I am about to go down when it may not even be the issue. It could be bad luck and timing and something else is wrong.. who knows.

Also, when i say it wont start, Theres no attempt at all not even a little pop or bang here and there. Just turns over and over and over and over. With little compression. I took the spark plug out and plugged the hole with my thumb and turned it over. There is a little compression there but I can hold it in with my thumb and thats not something that should be possible. There is also a spark and Im sure there is fuel as the pump is running and i can smell it when i had the exhaust off.

A friend just gave me a bike lift. Looks like its going to get some use sooner than I thought.

Ill add some pictures I managed to take. Maybe someone can spot something I didn't or thought was normal.

That will teach me for going on a missing to find the source of a noise!

Cheers blokes and galls.

I'd buy the cheapest thing they have listed just to leave negative feedback, bellends

They would probably remove the listing and re-list at at double the cost!

thanks all.

I did not sleep well last night and was so tired I only just got past the hazard perception test this time round!

I got 47 out of 50 on the questions and 47 out of 75 on hazard perception. The pass mark is 43 and 44! But a pass is a pss 

I've been doing the mock tests online and passing every time but getting some questions wrong.

I have now gotten them all correct so if I fail again tomorrow, It's rigged 

Are you sure that the wire you have concluded is the diag wire definitely is the diag wire? Maybe try connecting it to it's own bulb so you're not shorting two circuits together.

I doubt the ECU is at fault, they rarely fail and when they do it's usually down to user error.

100% sure.
I even found the "connector" behind the side panel. Attaching a bulb to it or a multi meter shows no voltage at that connector. Its just 1 wire with bullet style end on it.

I found a yam dealer in Peterborough. It was Webbs but not since October. Will give them a call and see if they can give some insight.

Just need some opinions on this as I think my ECU is faulty.

The bike does run and work with all lights etc working and so on.

It's just the bike does not rev up to 2k rpm on cold start like it should. It was working intermittently but not any more.

I noticed that the clocks on this bike are not the correct one as they should be white not black. And the white speedo/clocks like on my stolen YBR Custom had a diagnostic light on the right side vs on the black one a right indicator light. Some non custom YBR's do have the same diag light on the black clocks but most just have the indicator light. And to confuse it even more there's a 3rd style of clocks. I suppose I could buy the 3rd style that does have a diag light too but id have to check the wires are the same.

I want to get the white version but they are expensive when they pop up.. The reason for this explanation is to cover what I was trying to do today.

So I thought I could just wire that diag wire to the right indicator light and use it as my diag light. There is a wire in the connector of the loom that does not connect to anything in the connector to the clocks and the wiring diagram confirms this is the wire that would go to that diag light if I had the right clocks for the bike.

But up on trying to get this working I found that I'm not getting a voltage on that wire when turning on the ignition. When the fuel pump primes the diag light is supposed to come on.

I say no voltage, there is but it's wrong. When I turn the ignition on I am getting -0.25 volts. Once the fuel pump stops priming the voltage is 0. When forcing an error by unplugging the fuel pump the voltage starts bouncing around between 0.2v and 1v

From that behaviour I am guessing the ECU is a little faulty. Do you think the same?

A replacement on eBay currently is £40 or more so I don't want to spend that money and have it not fix the issue with the diag light and the bike not reving up when cold. Especially while I am only getting SSP. (Back to work in about 2 weeks)